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McQueen's frocks were political in their Tiffany Atlas tag pendant of history--as with his "Highland Rape" collection, which addressed the subjugation of Scotland by the British. He engaged in discomforting confrontations over gender violence with Tiffany Atlas toggle bracelet collections that he touted as empowering women but that often seemed to dehumanize them in the process.

Indeed, his clothes reflected a cold realism about life's unfairness, its cruelties, and inevitable end. And his audiences were drawn to the beauty Tiffany Atlas toggle necklace emerged from that angst. "Lee combined two things, the superficiality of fashion and the sublime beauty of death," says artist Jake Chapman, a friend and creative confidant. "The reason his work has resonance was the self-destruction. We were watching someone kind of crumble."

One of McQueen's most powerful shows was for his spring 2004 collection, based on the 1969 Sydney Pollack film They Shoot Horses, Don't They? The movie Tiffany Bead bracelet a heartbreaking tale of aspirations and obsessions during the Depression; contestants in a dance marathon exhaust themselves physically and emotionally through their desperate grasping for an elusive prize.